Monday, 8 August 2011

Mountaineering in Huaraz, Peru.

I spent about 2.5 weeks in Huaraz, mountaineering and climbing, and catching up on missed drinking time.
Having spent the season here last year, Rolf knew lots of people, places to go out, eat, and climb. Very useful, cheers Rolf (the self proclaimed 'party tiger...'). hmmm.
Unfortunately we were not as successful with summits as were were in Bolivia, but it was good none the less. Huaraz is a cool base town, mostly locals, climbers and trekkers. We only managed one summit, Vallunaraju 5780 meters. This almost didn't happen after we overslept and didn't start climbing until 6.15am, just as the first person who summited that morning got off the glacier...
On Pisco, Nick unfortunately was not fully acclimatised and could not continue, so we retreated about 200m from the summit. This didn't bother me much as the weather was poor and visibility zero from the summit. We also depressingly had toretreat from Chopicalqui 6345 meters. Gareth had been ill the week before and wasn't feeling strong, and after breaking trail in shin deep powder snow for 45 mins or so, and having very cold feet, decided he was too tired to continue. We turned back at about 6100 meters and were back at the glacier camp by 8.30am.

About 6100m on Chopicalqui as the sun comes up. Incredible views, incredibly cold. I was climbing wearing every item of technical clothing I had, including my down jacket. Thanks Steve, for the gloves, as I would have no fingers to be able to type this now without.
Another nice 3am start in the tent. Snickers for breakfast as we ran out of fuel melting snow to drink so could not make porridge.
Poor conditions when we arrived at the glacier camp, 5400 meters? Cold and lonely...
Nick climbing.
Moraine camp, 4900 meters, Chopicalqui approach. Ronhills and Koflachs going strong.
Heavily crevassed glacier below the glacier camp.
Lake after crossing the moraine from hell, Pisco approach.
Pisco retreat in poor conditions. Nick suffering from the altitude. About 5200 meters?

Nick taking in the views after dinner.
Base camp donkey.

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